It had to be done.... .
...Ithaka.
Cafavy' s poem has always been one of my favourites, so a trip to Ithaka is high on my agenda. And to Kioni too, not visited before, and reputedly very pretty.
The winds are much better south of Lefkas island, so we have a good sail down to Ithaka, zooming past lots of other boats (much to Sylvia's pleasure.. I think she's a closet racer). Its still a tad windy when we arrive but there is plenty of space to moor stern to on the rocks to the south of the harbour.
We're getting the hang of stern-to mooring by now - after dropping the line, Sylvia leaps into the sea with a line and swims ashore whilst I have the easier job of keeping the boat in position. Having got one line on and the boat winched back into position, Sylvia then swims back, and out with a second line. we then sit and relax with a beer....
That is of course until an arrogant Italian comes and drops his anchor straight across our anchor chain. My gesticulations are to no avail - he gives me a dissmissive gesture and goes for a swim, completely ignoring my concern. We then have to sit on the boat and wait, not going ashore in case he decides to leave - which he does at about 5pm.
The ineviatable happens. He pulls up our anchor. He then frees it and motors off without a backwards glance or word of apology, leaving us tied to the shore, but being blown sideways onto the rocks. Sylvia, who is on the bow, uses some choice words, rhyming with banker - not sure he heard it but we don't care. Fortunately we have planned what to do.. I have to motor forward whilst using the bow thrusters to keep us off the rocks, whilst Sylvia dives in yet again to free the stern lines and then swims back to deal with the anchor.
Of course, we then have to go through the whole anchoring process again, this time with even stronger cross winds. I think the novelty of swimming ashore is starting to wear off, as Sylvia jumps in yet again to sort out the stern lines.
When we finally go ashore, we enjoy walking round Kioni. Whilst the "traditional" taverna recommended in the guides is a great disappointment, the Spavento bar is a delight. The sun sets on another hot and pleasant day in the ionian.
Cafavy writes..
As you set out on your journey to Ithaka
hope your road is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
angry Poseidon - don't be afraid of them:
you'll never find things like that one on
your way.
As long as you keep your thoughts raised
high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops,
wild Poseidon - you won't encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your
soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of
you.
Hope your road is a long one.
May there be many summer mornings when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you enter harbours you're seeing for the
first time;
May you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfumes of every kind -
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to learn and go on learning from their
scholars.
Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you're destined for.
But don't hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you're old by the time you reach the
island,
wealthy with all you've gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.
Ithaka gave you the marvellous journey.
Without her you wouldn't have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.
And if you find her poor, Ithaka won't have
fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of
experience,
you'll have understood by then what these
Ithakas mean